Thick morning mist over the canal |
0.4°
C. Frost on the canvases and ice on the roof. Still a chilly 3° C when we set
off at 8.15am. It was very misty to start with, occasionally the mist got
thinner and the sun shone through. Many layers of clothes again. 5kms to the
first lock, 20 Bras, where a new itinerant was waiting for us. A man in his
late forties with a round face, he was cheerful and chatty. He opened the right
hand gate when we were close to the lock to keep as much of the rotting
floating weed out as possible. We were soon down and out
through one gate, Mike
was redundant as he did one gate at each end of the lock. On to a canal
section, passing a lone dog walker. 7.8kms to the next lock. The wildlife,
birds and animals, were amazing. I saw a large brown animal swimming down the
river, coypu or otter? Loads of birds of prey, buzzards and black kites, even
an egret, plus ducks and moorhens. Took photos of an animal swimming along the
edge of the piling to identify later (muskrat). By 10am the mist had gone and
sun was out in a clear blue sky – but with great banks of cloud in the distance.
Arrived at the next lock half an hour later. 21 Champ. A deep one at 3.8m but
deeper than that as the level below had been reduced by about 60cm. Our lockie
was chatting with an old guy from the lock house as we set off. The canal depth
had been reduced to about 1.7m. Nearly 4kms to the next lock. Bank protection
work had been done over several years with rocks along the bank covered with
hessian,
grass was starting to grow through what must have been done at least a
year ago (a grey wagtail was searching it for bugs) and more substantial plants,
reeds and marsh marigolds, probably two years old. Due to the amount of rotting
vegetation above lock 22 Samogneux the keeper delayed opening the gate until we
were close to it. There was a solid double lockhouse (dating no doubt from the
glory days when two lock keepers lived there and did shifts when the locks were
open long hours and
traffic was heavy) shuttered and empty now. On the opposite
side of the lock was a lock cabin, a portacabin and a shipping container (what
the latter was for we have no idea, maybe the bio bank repair stuff) and
another VNF van. The 3kms pound to the next lock was also lowered by 30cm.
White clouds were forming and there was a big bank of the grey misty stuff in
front. There was no weed floating above lock 23 Brabant so the gate was open
ready. Down 3m, admiring the double house which was lived in and a Cadillac
Seville which
was parked among the other vehicles on the lockside. I spied a
three inch buddleia seedling growing on the lock wall and rescued it,
put it in a pot on the roof so it can grow into a tree. On to a river section
below lock 23. 2.2kms to lock 24 Consenvoye, an old sloping sided lock, shallow
at only 1.34m, with a pontoon on the left to tie to while the lock emptied. On
through the town of Consenvoye. The river disappeared over a weir on the left
as we entered another canal
section at KP177. Through Mike’s posh binos I spotted a
honey buzzard sitting on a fence post far away across the fields. Through
Sivry, where a mastless yacht was moored next to some holiday chalets, then the
D964 followed right alongside the canal again. The first pair of grebe I’d seen
this year were fishing in a wide bit by a bridge before the next lock. Into
lock 25 Planchette and down another 2.5m on to another river reach of just 2kms
which poured over a long unguarded weir by the start of the canal at
Vilosnes-Haraumont, then through a modern flood lock and more holiday
chalets.
The wind picked up as the sun went into hiding as we reached that bank of
clouds. I made a cuppa and Mike took more multi shots of birds of prey. 7kms
overall from Planchette to 26 Ligny, a shallow lock at 1.80m and with our
efficient keeper at work we were soon on our way again. He left the gate open
as there was a lump of wood in the chamber and he didn’t want it to get stuck
in the gates, he said he’d deal with it on his way back. 1.7kms to his last
lock 27
Warinvaux. A dog and a goat came galloping on to the lockside to greet
us, except the goat was nervous and shy, but the St Bernard was a big daft sloppy
dog who made a big fuss. Our cheerful lockie wished us a good trip to Belgium
and we thanked him for working the locks for us. Nearly 3pm as we set off on
another river reach taking photos of the church at Dun on a hill overlooking
the valley. A new 10m pontoon had been added below the lock, for cruisers to
wait for lock working no doubt. Another new
pontoon (and a brick built BBQ) by
the Gendarmerie. Turned left into the canal by the silos and zapped the post –
nice to have had a lockie’s company for a while, but nice too to be back on
DIY. Lock 28 Dun-sur-Meuse was 2.35m fall and we had an audience on the tail
end bridge. It was slow emptying. The lock house, being in a town, was lived
in. I made a cuppa. Mike said there was one boat (winter moored) on the pontoon
and seven campervans parked next to it. Passed two railway bridges destroyed in
WW1, two trip boats at Meuse Nautique by the first set of abutments. Took a
photo of a floating fishing shed (lots like it on the Somme) and after 3kms the
river tumbled over a weir at Sassey-sur-Meuse and we were back on still waters
of the canal. 4kms to lock 29 Sep. The barragiste’s house, by the long needle
weir, was lived in and two VNF vans went down the track leading to it as we
passed, they waved just as a passing motorist on the D964 (back by the canal
again) gave us a loud hoot. Took a photo of the distant Basilica at
Mont-Devant-Sassey and Mike took photos of storks on a nest in old flooded
gravel pits. The lock house at Sep was also lived in despite being opposite (or
maybe because of) the busy D964 right next to the lock. Down 2.6m on a 3.4km
canal pound. Another boat! A pénichette hireboat from Pont-à-Bar, well I never!
So they do get hireboats up here,
thought they all went downriver to the glamorous bit of the Meuse into Belgium. Under
the pipe bridge and a footbridge (a towpath changeover bridge as was) where two
early-teen girls were fooling around, one of them stood on top of the high
parapet taking a selfie on her phone. She scrambled down as we approached and
both waved and politely said hello. Tied up before Mouzay lock with a beautiful
panoramic view over the fields and meadows of the Meuse flood plain to the
distant Argonnaise hills. It was 4.50pm as Mike banged pins in behind the
piling. Decided to leave the car at Consenvoye and collect it next day, as we
shall be having a well-earned day off. Had some bad news, our old friend Hans
(the school teacher) in Eisenhüttenstadt, East Germany had been in hospital the last four
months suffering from dementia. Poor old thing. He’s not old enough to have dementia. Our thanks to fellow boater and good friend Klaus who found out what had happened to Hans for us, we knew something was wrong as he hadn't replied to birthday greetings on Facebook.
Still misty in the distance |
Muskrat swimming right by the bank piling |
House for two lock keepers, lock 22 Samogneux |
Attached to a pontoon in a sloping sided lock, 24 Consenvoye |
Open weir blow lock 25 Planchette |
Daft dog at 27 Warinvaux |
Church on the hill at Dun-sur-Meuse |
Floating fishing shed below lock 28 Dun |
Moored near Mouzay |
Spectacular sunset at Mouzay |
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