Boat unloading in the port of Givet |
12.6°
C. Drizzle, which lasted all morning. Afternoon brighter grey clouds and dry. A
loaded Dutch péniche called Viridis Quo went past heading downriver around 9am.
Mike and I went a walk to the shops and bought a few groceries to last us
through to when we get to Pont-de-Loup from a Carrefour City. City prices too.
Paying for convenience. Set off just after ten, leaving one Dutch boat (an old
Bounty!) on the quay behind us. There was just one (Dutch) boat in the port of
Givet, Solutio (W’Dam), being unloaded by crane. A Dutch DB replica went past
and Mike gave the keeper at lock 59 Quatre Cheminées a shout on VHF. He replied
and said the lock was ready. It was very noisy with lots of loud military
aircraft in the vicinity, must be an airbase nearby. Once in the lock, Mike got
off to take the telecommand into the office, but the young lock keeper hung out
of the window and addressed Mike by name – just enter the boat name and the VNF
computer
gave him all our details! 2.7m drop and we were soon on our way
downriver again. Mike changed flags as we crossed the border into Belgium. Not
much left of the fuel depot we used to visit to get red diesel back in the day
when that was legal. Canada geese everywhere, plus a few swans and greylags.
Very smart houses along the left bank and forested hills on the right. A
kestrel was sitting on
the telephone wires watching for rodents in someone’s
garden. A Dutch cruiser went past heading uphill just before lock 1 at
Hastière. Mike called the lock, no reply, but we had a green light and the lock
was ready for us. The drizzle paused. I thought the lock was remote operated
judging by all the cameras, but Mike said he saw the keeper in his cabin, way
up high above the lock. Water was piddling out of the lock walls, washing the
gunwales and I made sure it didn’t get my jeans wet as we dropped down
2.9m.
Before the first bridge we passed a boat that we both thought was a police
boat, dark blue with red and white diagonal bands, but it turned out to be a
Dutch cruiser as it had a huge Dutch flag on its stern! Sandpipers went
yodelling across the river, then I took photo of a pair of barnacle geese to show
Mike the difference between them and Canadas. More beautiful houses on the
right hand side and forested hills on the left at Hastière-par-delà. There was
a
green light at the entrance to the lock cut leading to lock 2 Waulsort. More
very noisy aircraft. The lock was ready, soon down another 2.2m. Below the lock
there was a very large ornate old building for sale which was once The Grand
Hotel. Even though part of its roof was missing the price tag was 99,900€. The
long moorings of Hastière Yacht Club had only a dozen boats on its pontoons,
one of them was a DB – the crew waved. Took photos of the old chateau. Just a
few rock climbers on Freyr rocks opposite the ancient chateau of the same name.
A Belgian flagged DB went past as we rounded the bend to lock 3 Anseremme. The
old railway went through a tunnel into the rock
on the left and above it the
wind had eroded the rock, reminding us of the tunnel on the Canal du Midi. A
long row of cruisers belonging to Anseremme boat club stretched down to the
weirstream. Into the lock cut. A trip boat from Dinant had just come into the
lock (another went up the weir stream and winded to head back into Dinant) so I
threw a rope around a bollard and we waited while the lock filled. Le Sax
exited the lock chamber, the lock light stayed on red so Mike gave the lock a
call on
VHF and the lady keeper said “entrez!” then we dropped down another
2.2m. Below the lock the underwater training wall linking the lock to an island
was now marked with red and green cans (many years ago a friend of ours
grounded his boat there while waiting for the lock and almost sank). On
downriver into Dinant taking photos of the rocks and the viaduct. A large hotel
ship, Azolla from Maasbracht, was moored below the bridge on the left bank as
its superstructure was too high to pass under it. The quays along the right
bank were undergoing fundamental re-development. Several cruisers were moored
just downriver of the big ship. We’d already spotted that the pontoons for
pleasure boats (a bit further back upriver) had been removed and there were
surveillance cameras all along that bank. Lock 4 Dinant was ready with a green
light so we went in and waited. Eventually the gates closed behind us and we
dropped down 1.8m. It rained again briefly as we carried on downstream. Noticed
that there were two ancient abandoned trip boats moored in the old arm and
beyond that there was a large new vineyard. Yet another Dutch cruiser went past,
heading upriver.
Lock 5 Houx had closed gates and a red light, so Mike called the
keeper on the radio. He said he would reopen the gates when we were a bit
closer, which he did, and then we dropped down another 2m. Less than a
kilometre downstream we stopped at the old quay in Anhée. There is a low quay
which was almost on river water level and Mike decided to give the sides of the
boat hull a good scrub, starboard side first (empty 80m
Dune went past heading
upriver and his wash snapped an old short rope that we had temporarily tethered
the boat with) Mike knotted it back together. We winded and did the other side
before bow-hauling the boat on downriver a bit and tying to the higher quay (a
bit higher than our roof). It was just after 5pm when we finished. Solutio, now
empty after unloading in Givet, went past heading downriver at 6.45pm.
House with wisteria above Hastiere |
Barnacle geese - NOT Canadas |
Wanna buy a hotel? 990,900€. Anybody? |
Swiss cheese rocks |
Anseremme lock and weir |
Roche Bayard and high viaduct in Dinant |
Slides for the pontoons (not there) at Dinant and CCTV. Temporary moorings further downriver |
Digging up the waterfront at Dinant |
Biggest boat we've ever seen in Dinant. Hotel ship Azolla |
Moored at an old quay in Anhee |
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